Replacement Windows

One of the more important tasks in the basement remodeling was replacement of the old windows. It is a walk-out basement, so the back has two large (45" x 50") windows. The old windows had single-pane glass, steel frames, and leaked cold air like an open door. Replacing windows is not a trivial task in the best of circumstances, but among the challenges in this case was that the steel window frames were set into the cement foundation.
So the first task was extracting the old windows from the cement foundation. Start by removing the glazing:
Then cut out the cross bar (glad I bought that Sawz-all)...
The metal window fram is set into the cement, but not anchored or fastened in any other way. To extract the frame from the cement, pry the bottom frame up with a pry bar. This pulls the sides in as well, and soon (or eventually, anyway) the metal frame can be pulled out.
After a break, we framed the window. Pressure treated (p.t.) 5/4" decking was nailed to the cement (using a power nailer which uses a .22 caliber charge to blast the nail into the cement). Since the bottom of the frame was sloped, a p.t. 2x4 was trimmed on the table saw and nailed in place first. Then 2x8s were added on all four sides. Finally, to narrow down the sides a little, a strip of exterior grade 3/16" plywood was added on each side.
I had to trim the top flange of the window to fit the opening while my able assistant applied silicone caulking to the flange.
Then we CAREFULLY lifted the window into place. Mason was stationed outside to make sure it didn't fall. Put a nail (1-3/4" roofing nails) through the flange at the top corners.
Then you make sure the window is square and plumb. Measure diagonally in both directions; the measurements should be with in 1/4" of each other.
Use shims to adjust if necessary. Also use a level to make sure that both sides of the window are plumb. It would be very easy to have one side not quite plumb, in which case the window might not open. Next, I tested to make sure the windows opened smoothly. At this point, while installing the second window, I discovered that I had not yet nailed the top corners in place. Sure enough, the window started to fall out. Fortunately, Mason was there to catch it! The final steps are to nail the window securely in place ( every other space on the flange, according to the instructions), and caulk around the window with silicone caulking, filling large gaps with foam backer.

Later, when I am finishing the inside walls I will finish framing the inside. The windows will be boxed in drywall, with large windows sills. I'll update that when it happens.